Original Portuguese Egg Tarts and Secret Chinese Food in Lisbon

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– This beef dish looksparticularly awesome.

Oh, I think that's all sichuan pepper.

(samba music) Good morning, everyone.

It's Mark Wiens with migrationology.


It's a beautiful morning in Lisbon.

We are walking to the Metro, we're gonna take the Metro andthen we're gonna take a tram.

And we are on our way to Belém.

Just got off the Metro at Cais do Sodré, and we should be able to take the tram or train from right here.

We ended up waiting at the tram stop for, I think, almost 45 minutes.

So it's, so much for tryingto get an early start.

(uplifting music) Once we got onto the tram, that took about 20 minutes, I think.

Francois is worried from the one.

– [Ying] Mm-hmm.

– Francois sells the best one- (Ying laughs) – It's not the best imitation of this one.

– [Waiter] One tart, one chocolate donut, and uh cappuccino,- Cappuccino.

and two coffees, right?- Yes.

Our first stop this morning is the legendary Pastéis de Belém, which is maybe one of themost well-known places in all of Portugal, andmaybe in the entire world, for Portuguese egg tarts.

And Portuguese egg tartsare famous the world over, from Macao to even in Thailand.

Did they have it on, did theyhave it on KFC in Thailand? I think- Yeah, yeah.

– They also have it at KFC in Thailand.

But Portuguese egg tarts, we're about to have ourfirst one so far in Lisbon, and a cup of coffee.

They have both take-away and sit in, and, luckily, we are here early enough where we just got a table and got to sample thisworld famous egg tart.

Thank you.

– [Waiter] One, two.

– [Ying] (laughs) Thank you.

– [Waiter] This one's cinnamon and sugar.

– The Pastéi de Belém has arrived.

Ying and I got one, and then we also got a chocolate-filled Portuguese donut.

And then I knew one coffeewould not be enough, so I went ahead and orderedtwo at the same time.

I better begin with the egg tart.

And, by the way, thisplace dates back to 1837.

And before I take a bite,I just want to point out that flaky, crispycrust on the edges here.

Looks like little layers of pastry.

And then it has thisslightly yellow, golden, and slightly browned top,little crust on that egg tart.

(crunchy bite) Oh, wow.


That is the best egg tart I've had.

What's really awesome about that egg tart is actually the crust, the outer wrapping, which is incredibly crispy.

And then it has a saltyflavor to it, as well, which contrasts the pudding-likeegg tart in the center, which is sweet.

Okay, let me follow thatwith a sip of coffee.

Good combination.



That combination of the crispy crust with the warm, gooey pudding-like interior is a, yeah, that is a pair.

– [Ying] Bite, bite.

– Bite it, huh? Just look how much chocolateis filled into there.

You can feel the bread isn't that light because there's so much densityof chocolate in the middle.


Yeah, this is like alittle chocolate hamburger.

Mmmmm, mmm.

That chocolate is really good.

Really rich and smooth.

It has a really strong chocolate flavor.

And the bread is really fluffy and soft.

And then it's coated in sugar.

Coffee number two.

When Ying and I came to this place, we just sat down at thenearest table we could find, which was right near the entrance.

But I just went to use the restroom, and this place is huge.

There are just, like, multiplerooms filled with tables.

I can see hundreds of people.

You can actually get lost back here.

This place is huge.

And there are antiques around.

You can smell the eggtarts and the coffee.

I'm trying to find myway back to our table.

But you would never know howbig this place actually is from just looking at it from the outside.

One thing that I should mention is that Ying and I just split oneegg tart and also that Portuguese donut and had some coffee, but I'm not really too much into sweets.

If I just have a coupleof bites of sweets, that's good for me.

However, most people eating there I think they were eatingtwo to five, per person.

So, definitely, if you love sweets, you're gonna wanna eat a couple of those egg tarts when you come.

We're walking past Jerónimo's Monastery which I'll come back to.

But I wanted to go firstcheck out the Torre de Belém, which is the Belém Tower.

That strong ring light.

(Ying laughs) – [Ying] (speaks in foreign language) Behind the scene.

– Behind the scenes.

Oh, Ying, we need a videoabout behind the scenes.

(uplifting music) Belém is a section of Lisbon.

And when you come to Belémone of the top things to do is to visit the Tower ofBelém, which is a fortified military tower which wasbuilt on the mouth of the Tagus River and completed in 1519.

It is a Unesco World Heritage site.

The tower is built mostly of limestone, and it 30 meters inheight, a four-story tower.

And because the spaces insideare so tight and so small, they only allow 150people to enter at a time.

So that's why it cantake some time to get in.

I'm making my way up thenarrow spiral staircase now.

93 steps, it is spiral stone staircase, and now at the top, somegreat view of the bridge and of the Tagus River.

Yeah, this is nice.

(uplifting music) Tight squeeze here.

Tryin' to get a lookout fromthis little lookout tower.

This is an awesome place to chill.

What I really liked was the architecture as well as the stonework.

It's very impressive.

What I didn't like were thelong lines and the crowds.

But that was cool to see.

And now I need to find Ying.

Ying decided to wait itout in this park right here because she doesn't like waiting in lines or crowds of people, so shedecided to just let me go in.

And she's somewhere relaxing in this park in the shade somewhere.

Ying! Oh ho ho ho.

– So nice, so nice.

– [Mark] Relaxing to the max.

Your shoes are off.

– So nice.

– [Mark] How is Ying? – Yeah yeah.

– We are now walking back towards Jerónimo's Monastery, which is the place we're gonna visit next.

But I have to tell youguys that I'm having a little bit of achallenging time in Portugal finding restaurants to eat at.

Not because there's a lack of restaurants, but because I think it hasto do with the fact that we're here on the weekend,so today is a Sunday.

But, many of the restaurantsthat I had on my list that many of you recommendedare all closed on Sunday.

(uplifting music) And again this is a veryimpressive architectural wonder, and there's a huge crowd standing outside.

The monastery was commissionedand built in the late 1400s to commemorate Vasco da Gama's route of the discovery to India.

Built in Manueline architectural style.

And I can just imagine atthe time that it was built it must have been a showcase of the power and the influence of Portugal.

We just waited in line for over an hour in the hot sun, finally got our tickets.

Phsew, that was a long, long wait.

But we have finally gotten inside.

This is the cloister area, and it is, wow.

It's beautiful, actually.

The architecture, the stonework,the courtyard in the middle and the garden and the fountain.

(bright music) It measures 55 meters by55 meters with two stories, so I'm about to go up to the upper level.

But the detail of thestonework is really impressive.

Walking through thehalls of this monastery kind of reminds me of the Taj Mahal.

(cheerful music) Finished walking around the cloister, and they also have a couple of museums.

And now walking over to themain entrance of the church.

It is huge on the inside, and while the outside isbright and white in color, inside it has kind of dark medieval but Manueline feel to it.

(cheerful music) And this entrance doorway is huge, and also the detail withinthis doorway is amazing.

But I think the highlightfor me of visiting Jerónimo's Monasterywas that cloister area.

We've decided to catchthe bus back towards town and gonna have lunchat the TimeOut Market.

We've made it to Mercado de Ribeira, which is also known as theTimeOut Mercado in Lisboa.

And there is a traditional market, fresh market, on the right hand side.

But, again, because it'sSunday, it's all closed.

So we are just in the food court area.

Looks like there are a lotof different food choices.

And this is one placethat is open on Sunday.

There's a lot of variety to eat.

There's a lot of, kind of,modern twists, I think, to food, as well as some gourmet food, as well as some international food.

There's even an Asian place with Pad Thai and some Asian dishes.

There is pizza, there is Portuguese food.

But it has a, it does havea very nice feeling to it.

It's modern, it's kindof on the trendy side.

And I just ordered somesalted cod with garbanzo beans and they give you a buzzer,so it should buzz pretty soon and I'll have my plate of lunch.

I'm not sure if it's actuallysalt cod if it's fresh cod.

And then on the bottom isa puree of garbanzo beans and I think that's oliveoil surrounding it.

Oh, that tastes like hummus.

It's a little bit salty,and the garbanzo beans have a little bit of a sourtaste in them as well, maybe some lemon juice in there.

My very, yeah, it's likea dip of garbanzo beans.

And this is a pretty gourmet version.

The piece of fish is very good, though.

It's flaky and moist.

It was very good, a littlebit on the plain side for me, but I did enjoy that fish especially, and the puree of garbanzo beans.

We are heading out of here, and gonna try to takethe Metro to a museum which is a little bit north in the northern part, I think, of Lisbon.

And they shut at 6pm, it's about 4pm now, so I think we'll be ableto get there in time.

We got off the Metro atSão Sebastião station, and it should be a prettyshort walk from here.

And this is a famous art museum.

It's called the CalousteGulbenkian Museum.

The really good news is onSunday that it's free entrance.

So I just put my bag in the cloak room, and we're gonna walk around the museum.

(cheerful music) This museum has a significant collection of both Western andancient, even Egyptian art.

(cheerful music) Portrait of an Old Manby Rembrandt from 1645.

It was not too big of a museum, but they did have somevery famous pieces of art.

And I enjoyed the paintings, some of the paintings within the museum.

But the garden alone outside of the museum is well worth a visit.

I think for the museum,you definitely need to really appreciate and enjoy art.

(cheerful music) From the museum, we took the Metro back to the Rossio Square area, and we're on our way to go eat dinner.

(cheerful music) We're walking through thisawesome little side neighborhood, really narrow streets,art, and it's kind of like little Chinatown, littleIndia, little Mozambique.

We're looking for this one restaurant, which I think we have come up to, right behind me this grey building.

There's no sign or anything.

And so it's kind of a secret restaurant, but I think it's up there where the sheet is hanging from the balcony.

Yeah, I hope we're not showing up to somebody's house for dinner tonight.

Actually, that wouldn't be a bad idea.

Oh, we came to the right restaurant.

And this is a Chinese restaurant.

There's no sign from the outside.

And you just walk up the steps.

It doesn't look, just looks like somebody's home in the neighborhood.

And then you come uphere and it just opens up into there's, it's full of long tables, and it definitely is a Chinese restaurant.

I was honestly wanting to eat some traditional Portuguese food,but I had some complications.

Number one my phonedied, with the Internet, so I ran out of information.

And then I searched, Iliterally searched through my entire list of restaurantsand every Portuguese traditional restaurant I wantedto try was closed on Sunday.

So Ying and I decided tomake the executive decision to have Chinese food for dinner.

And both of us are readyfor some Chinese food.

The menu is only inChinese and Portuguese.

So I'm using my Spanish to sort of translate into Portugueseto translate into English.

And so this one for sure, Ying and I are gonna getthe sopa ácido picante.

Okay, actually I'm doing really poor on my translation skills.

I'm kind of just writing down some dishes, I'm kinda blindly choosinga couple of dishes.

I'm gonna order the carnede galinha com camarão.

I forgot to mention this before,but we got a great table.

Right in front of the window, the cool cool breeze is coming through.

You can see the Portuguese flag waving, potted flowers and I thinkYing and I might've got a little bit excited thatwe're having Chinese food, and we ordered quite a, the dishes are huge in portion size.

Ying just dished me abowl of hot and sour soup.

Oh, it's hot.

Yeah, it's.

There's tofu in it, there arelittle pieces of mushroom, and I think egg drop as well.

Also, a plate of chowmein has just arrived.

Egg, there's some vegetables in here, Lemme put some of this on my plate.

Also a side of chili sauce.

Oh ho ho! It's been too long.

The smokiness in that wokhei flavor is fantastic.

And then this was one of thedishes I think I guessed on.

But it's chicken, thereare shrimp in here, Is it chicken, or is this the pork dish? I think it's chicken.

And there are cucumbersand peppers in here.

Let me stick this on my rice, I gotta go for some moreof that chili sauce.

Oh yeah.

That's salty.

I have to say, I had no ideathe portions were going to be this big because the menu,the prices are not high, the prices are very veryreasonable for Europe.

But the dishes are huge, andit's only Ying and I eating.

But I'm not complaining.

This beef dish looks particularly awesome.

The beef on the top.

I think sichuan pepper and chilies and on the bottom hereis cabbage, I think.

This smells and looks unbelievable.

Okay, I just gotta takea bite immediately.

Oh, I think that's all sichuan pepper.

Oooh! Oh, yes! That is sichuan pepper, it's garlicky, it's filled with, like, garlic oil.

And chili oil, tender slices of beef.

Lots and lots of garlic in there.


Mmm, that's, yeah.

I'm glad I wrote down this dish without knowing whatit was, and ordered it.

This is the vegetable I ordered, which I just wrote down, too.

And I think it's jicima.

It wouldn't have been my first choice had I known what it is.

I would've liked more ofa green leafy vegetable, but that's okay.

Mmm, mmmmm.

That is jicima, but it does have a really wonderful smokey flavor again.

I actually forgot all about these because they came last,and like five minutes after all the rest of the food.

But we also got the fried dumplings.

Oh, and these look fantastic.

Look how big this plate is, though.

There's so many of them.

A dip in vinegar, I think.


Those are hot and fresh.

Filled with minced meat, they're garlicky.

They're crispy and oily.

That's wonderful.

Ying are stumbling down the staircase out of this restaurant.

That meal absolutely hit the spot.

That beef dish, inparticular, was fantastic.

What a wonderful littlefamily-run restaurant.

I think within this lovelylittle neighborhood, this is the perfect placeto end today's vlog.

Ying and I are walking backto the hotel from here.

Thank you all very muchfor watching today's video.

Please remember to give it athumbs-up if you enjoyed it.

And also make sure you subscribe for lots more food and travel videos.

And I will see you on the next video.

Good night from Lisbon.

I had already ended the vlog for today, but Ying and I are justleisurely strolling home, and I came across this placethat I think I remember Anthony Bourdain having a drinkhere in one of his episodes that I watched a couple years back.

I think it's a cherryliquor, and then you bring, you just walk in there,it's only take-away, and then he pours you a little cup and puts in a little, putsin a berry at the bottom.


Wow, that's strong.


It's sweet and strongand I think it is cherry.

It does have like a fruity, a fruity sweet cherry taste to it.

Ooh, yeah, that is strong.

But that is very good.

This is a real legendary place, though.

This is really going to be theconclusion for today's video.

And yeah, we had, I hadno plans to stop there, but I just remember seeing it in Anthony Bourdain's Lisbon video.

Cheers to everyone andgoodnight from Lisbon, Portugal.